Порос
В античные времена Порос (тогда - Калаврия) считался островом бога моря Посейдона и был центром влиятельного союза греческих полисов. Свидетельством тому служат письменные источники, а также развалины храма Посейдона посредине острова. Пользуясь правом убежища в храме Посейдона скрывался Демосфен, спасаясь от посланных Антипатром убийц, где принял яд. Калаврийцы похоронили его внутри святилища и воздвигли ему памятник, который видел еще Павсаний. По свидетельству того же Павсания - Порос тогда состоял из двух маленьких островов - Сферия (вулканического происхождения) и Калаврия. В наши дни это по-прежнему два острова, однако разделены они каналом Аскали. На Сферии находится столица Порос. Здесь есть неплохой Археологический музей (открыт с четверга по воскресенье с 8.30 до 15.00; 2 евро) прямо на береговой линии, возвышающийся над всем городом маяк и лабиринт крутых узких улиц, застроенных колоритными домиками с черепичными крышами.
Калаврия сильно отличается от Сферии. Здесь присутствует бурная растительность, а также есть множество источников пресной воды. Считается. что изначально остров принадлежал Аполлону, однако он отдал его Посейдону в обмен на Дельфы. Руины древнего храма Посейдона находятся на севере Пороса. Храм был построен в 520 году до н.э.. Рядом с ним располагалось поселение Калаврия, однако еще более древнее поселение находилось у залива Лагинии, которое ушло под воду. Часы посещения храма Посейдона: 8:30-15:00, вход бесплатный.
Один из заливов острова называется Русским - в XIX веке на нем располагалась русская военно-морская база, помогавшая Греции в становлении ее военного флота. Руины российской верфи, которая была построена в 1834 году, можно увидеть в 5 километрах от храма Посейдона. Верфь принадлежала России до 1900 года, а с 1989 года считается историческим памятником.
Одним из важнейших мест Пороса считается так называемый Лимонный лес, объявленный ЮНЕСКО уникальным природным пейзажем. Здесь растут порядка 30000 лимонных деревьев. Находится Лимонный лес на маленьком острове, добраться до которого можно за 10 минут на маленьких судах.
Один из самых популярных пляжей острова находится сразу за городской чертой столицы Порос. Мегало Неонорио вмещает в себя как песчаный пляж, так и маленький центр водных видов спорта. Еще западнее раскинулся Лав-Бей с прекрасным песчаным пляжем. А уже за ним начинается знаменитая бухта Росикос-Навстатмос (“Русский залив”) с небольшим пляжем и хорошей яхтенной стоянкой.
К востоку от канала Аскели с его полосой гостиниц и вилл есть длинный, но также вечно переполненный одноименный пляж с еще одним водным центром. Еще восточнее можно обнаружить монастырь Зоодохос-Пийи-Калавриос (“Жизнетворного источника”, XVIII в., открыт ежедневно с восхода солнца до 13.30 и с 16.30 до заката). Чуть ниже раскинулся приятный песчаный пляж Монастириу, обычно один из менее переполненных на острове.
Как добраться до острова Порос:
- на пароме из порта Пирея, Саронические паромные линии тел.+30 210 41 17 341 / 71 190 / 26 528, время в пути: 2,5 часа
- на “Летучем дельфине” из порта Пирея, тел. +30 210 41 99 000, время в пути: 1 час
- на машине из Афин до Галатции по трассе Олимпия Одос А8\Е94, далее на пароме из Галатцас
- на автобусе из Афин до Галатции с автовокзала Кифисью
Tекст: Александр Фролов
Poros
Just a breath away from the Peloponnesian coasts, this beautiful small island of the Saronic Gulf is ideal for a weekend or a longer stay. The picturesque port of Poros is usually full of luxury yachts, giving to the island a cosmopolitan air. Most of the houses are built according to the neoclassical style, and a few of them are real masterpieces of their kind. Let alone Poros is overgrown, combining perfectly the green of the forests with the blue of the sea. Yes, it is definitely a lovely island. However, the story of Poros is far more larger than its size. Are you ready for a short trip back in time?
According to Pausanias, the Greek geographer of the 2nd century AD, in the antiquity Poros was consisted by two islets: Sfairia and Kalavria. Sfairia was a rock of volcanic origin and had took its name by Sfairos, the charioteer of Pelopas, who, according to mythology, was the King of Achaia and later of Pissa, and it is said that he was the founder of the Olympic Games. Anyway, when Sfairos was expelled by Pelopas, he fled to Troezen, the reign of the two exiled sons of Pelopas (as it seems, Pelopas had bad relationships with everybody). When Sfairos died, he was buried in Sfairia. The legend has it that Sfairos was the favorite of Athena, so the goddess had appeared in the dream of Aithra, the daughter of the king of Troezen and later mother of Thiseus (one of the biggest heroes of the Greek mythology and king of Athens), and asked her to go to Sfairia and make libations at the grave of Sfairos. Aithra obeyed, but when she went to Sfairia, she met
Poseidon and slept with him. After that, Aithra built a temple in Sfairia in honor of Athena, in which all the virgin girls of Troezen were going to dedicate their virginity to the goddess before their weddings. It is believed that this temple was located at the site of the today’s metropolitan church of Agios Georgios, in the central settlement of Poros. Just for the record this beautiful church was built in 1861 and is very known for the excellent frescoes of the distinguished Greek painter Konstantinos Parthenis.
Unlike the anhydrous and rocky Sfairia, Kalavria was overgrown and dotted with plenty of springs of fresh water. Initially it was dedicated to Apollo, but he gifted the island to Poseidon in return for Delphi. The ruins of the ancient temple of Poseidon were found in the north of Poros. It was built in 520 BC and it was a Doric rectangular edifice by blue limestone, with 6 columns at the two sides and 12 columns at the other two. It was surrounded by a precinct, several galleries and smaller temples. This magnificent temple was also the seat of the Amphictyony of Kalavria, a religious and later political federation, with 7 cities-members: Kalavria, Ermioni, Epidaurus, Aegina, Prasies, Athens and Orchomenos. Near the temple there was the settlement of Kalavria, while in the Bay of Vagionia there was another ancient settlement, that was sank into the sea. It is needless to say that the temple of Poseidon is one of the most significant ancient monuments
(not only of Poros), let alone its location is one of the most beautiful places of the island. (Temple of Poseidon, Palatia, Poros. Visiting hours: 8:30-15:00. Free entrance).
About 5 kilometers north of the temple, there are the preserved ruins of the Russian Dockyard, built in 1834, in order to supply the Russian fleet that was sailing in the Aegean Sea. It belonged to the Russians until 1900, while in 1989 it was declared as historical monument.
However, if you want to know more about the ancient history of the island and the wider region, you can always visit the Archaeological Museum of Poros, with finds dated from the Mycenaean up to the Roman era and derived from the excavations of the Temple of Poseidon, the Ancient Troezen, the Royal Tombs of Magoula, Apathi, Modi and Agios Konstantinos of Methana (Koryzi Square, Poros. Visiting hours: 8:00-15:00. Closed on Mondays. Ticket prices: 2 euros, 1 euro).
One of the places of Poros you should definitely visit, especially in spring, is the famous Lemonodasos (Lemon Forest), which has been declared by UNESCO as a landscape of natural beauty. 30,000 lemon trees fill with wonderful perfumes a fabulous place with plenty of springs and watermills. It is located just 10 minutes away from Poros and you can visit it by boat from the island.
The beaches of Poros are lovely, but the most famous of them is the Port of Love (Limanaki tis Agapis) at the north-west of the island. It is a romantic bay with turquoise waters, surrounded by pines, which is also one of the favorite anchorages of the yachts (and the favorite spot of the lovers as well). It is super organized, about 45 minutes walk from the town of Poros (if you do not mind to walk), but there are regular daily bus routes from Poros as well (so, no problem, right?). Just 15 minutes walk from the center of the town there is Kanali, another beautiful organized beach, also connected to the town with buses. In the east part of Poros, you can find Monastiri, a quiet and organized beach with crystal clear waters, under the hill where the monastery of Zoodochos Pigi is built. This beautiful monastery, by the way, was built in the 18th century and worth a visit, not only for its religious aspect, but also for its amazing landscape that is full
of pines and with a breathtaking view to the sea.
The nightlife of Poros is not exactly intense, but the whole coastal road in front of the port is full of cafes and restaurants, so your days and nights will not be boring for sure. Although the island is small, you will need car or motorbike for your locomotion (unless you want to spend your days on the cafes). In any case, there is also buses that connect the town of Poros with the other parts of the island (they depart every 30 minutes from the main square on the waterfront), and small boats to go by sea from place to place.
How to get there: By ferry boat from Piraeus (Saronic Ferries, tel.: +30 210 41 17 341 / 71 190 / 26 528. The trip lasts about 2 1/2 hours. By flying dolphin from Piraeus (Piraeus Flying Dolphins, tel.: +30 210 41 99 000. Poros Flying Dolphins, tel: +30 22980 22 297/23 423). The trip lasts about 1 hour. By car from Athens to Galatas (distance 161 km) via Olympia Odos/A8/E94 and EO Isthmos of Ancient Epidaurus and by ferry boat from Galatas. By bus from Athens to Galatas (and by ferry boat to Poros). Athens bus station (100 Kifissou Avenue, tel.: +30 210 51 24 910-11-12).
Τext: Marilou Pantazi
